TALES FROM THE CAPITAL CITY – 153

 

Ravi Varma paintings in Industrial School of Arts, Thiruvananthapuram

This old photograph reveals the interior of the Industrial School of Arts, Trivandrum (College of Fine Arts), where finely crafted ivory objects are displayed in large cabinets. In the foreground stand terracotta heraldic lions—still seen flanking the entrances of old aristocratic houses (Image 02 - from Thekkae Kurumkudy, Perumthanni), locally known as 'simham vecha veedukal.'

Lion figurine from Thekkae Kurumkudy, Perumthanni

A closer look at the array of ivory objects on display reveals an exquisite carving of Mohini seated on a swing— inspired by a popular work by Ravi Varma—suspended from the tips of elephant tusks mounted on a wooden base. This appears to be the same piece seen in a Travancore postcard. Also visible is a framed photograph of the Padmanabha Swamy Temple by D’Cruz, the Government Photographer.

Mohini seated on a swing

What truly stands out is Raja Ravi Varma’s 'Sakunthala' (1898), displayed on the wall. Along with Draupadi at the Court of Virata, Damayanti and the Hamsam, Draupadi and Simhika, and Rugmangatha and Mohini, it formed the nucleus of the art gallery envisioned by Ravi Varma, later evolving into the Sri Chitralayam during the reign of Chithira Tirunal Bala Rama Varma, the last Maharajah of Travancore.

Raja Ravi Varma’s 'Sakunthala' (1898), displayed on the wall.

TALES FROM THE CAPITAL CITY - XXVII

CRAFTING A NEW LEGACY

Write-up on the famed Edavancaud craftsmen, The Hindu, (03-05-2014), Thiruvananthapuram edition.

TALES FROM THE CAPITAL CITY - XXIV

LOST MEMORIES

The poomukham of the house - photographed by my uncle Kumar on a rainy day.

Pillavilakathu Veedu, my paternal grandmother’s ancestral home at Manacaud was not different from any other old houses. Built in the mid-nineteenth century, the house was a typical ‘nalukettu’, with a poomukham projecting out from the main living block. The house, with its massive lime plastered brick columns, the old terracotta flooring and the dark room with the smell of old books is etched in my childhood memories.

I was not born in this house, nor did my father have any right over the house or its property. Long ago, a piece of land adjoining this house was given to my grandfather by his father-in-law, however, it was sold off and he moved away from his wife’s ancestral house. However, I was always connected to this house, with the unbreakable emotional bond of love and care. In my childhood, I saw the old house in the last days of its fading glory, when it was still occupied by the families of my three grand uncles. My father’s eldest uncle R. Krishnaswamy and his family occupied the central block, the old portion of the house with the courtyard. Two later additions, the new blocks added by Krishnaswamy’s younger brothers flanked the two sides of the old house.

The padippura - watercolour painting by the author, 2008

The house brings in a thousand scattered images to my mind, the padippura, the poomukham,  the dusty attics, the dark rooms filled with memories from the past, trunks, which had not been open since the death of its owners, old Anchal cards that told the stories of many gone generations etc. One memorable face is that of my grand uncle R. Krishnaswamy. Lovingly addressed as ‘Kishammavan’ by my parents; our ‘Kishammava Appuppan’ is a man I will never forget in my life. How can I ever forget him, when his face is deeply etched in my first memories? One could never forget the taste of the ‘tomato curry and bread’ Kishammavan and his wife served us; never can I forget the music sessions in the poomukham, where I experimented with his harmonium.

The poomukham - watercolour painting by the author, 2008.

Last Deepavali night, after we had dinner at Buhari, my friend and I were about to return home. I asked him to take the route via Manacaud so that I can get a glimpse of the old house from the road. As we approached the house, I lifted my head, waited for the expected view, of the old house sandwiched between my grand uncles’ houses. However, to my amazement (and horror), I found out that the old house was not there! In its place was a new house. On my return home I asked my mother, “What happened to our old house at Manacaud?” Without looking at me, she replied casually, “Oh you don’t know? They demolished the old house and built a new one there, the new owners of the property”. That is when I realized that my favourite memories were lost- forever.

Sharat Sunder Rajeev,

2013.

Links:http://www.geni.com/people/R-Krishnaswamy-Pillavilakathu Veedu/6000000007708507456

TALES FROM THE CAPITAL CITY - VII

A WALK THROUGH HISTORY

Chalai - in the early morning - Photograph taken by the author.

You would have walked past the busy streets of Chalai a hundred times; a road leading from the East Fort gate to Killipalam, with shops on both sides of the road forms the major part of the bazaar. On the street side, you can see street vendors selling all types of household articles, vegetables and fruits. Narrow side lanes with old buildings on both sides give the bazaar a heritage look. Chalai bazaar situated in the heart of Thiruvananthapuram is a bustling trade centre since its origin. “Raja” Kesava Das, the Dewan of Travancore during the closing years of the 18th century established the crowded old “Bazaar”, the Chalai Street with its various bye-lanes and market areas.

Dharma Raja and his trusted Diwan Raja Keshava Das

During the reign of Karthika Thirunal Rama Varma (1758-1798 AD), Padmanabhapuram was the capital of Travancore, but the king preferred to live in the palace complex built near the renovated Padmanabha Swamy temple and thus gradually the capital shifted from Padmanabhapuram to Thiruvananthapuram. In order to make Travancore a ‘dharmarajyam'-model capital, the then Dewan Raja Kesava Das started many projects. He developed the blueprint for the chalai bazaar for the supply of utilities for the residents of Travancore.

The main road leading from the Eastern Fort gate to Karamana was repaired and widened and bazaars and shops were built on both sides of the road. He had bridges built over the rivers Killi and Karamana; the latter being opened only in AD 1853. It was through these rivers the goods were brought to the chalai bazaar. Ward & Connor (1820) recorded that the bridge over the Karamana river was of stone,” 120 feet long”, and that across the Killi, of wood. The records show that even a century back, the streets were considered overcrowded, requiring restrictions on traffic. It is also recorded that avenue trees were planted on both sides of roads – now alas! Treeless.

Karamana bridge opening in Illustrated London News, Aug 5, 1854.

Cultural impact.

Muslim and Tamil Brahmin traders were encouraged to establish commercial establishments for the wholesale dealership of goods coming from Tamil districts. Other establishments encouraged in the locality were for gold jewellery. A good number of weavers, dyers, painters etc were brought from Tirunelveli and Madura and were made to settle at Kottar, which was thus made the centre of cloth trade. Many opulent merchants very soon sprang up and even now the ‘Kottar Chetties’ are proverbial for their wealth and industry.

Main settlers of chalai include Tamilians-Pilla Chettier communities, stonemasons and goldsmiths from Vishakapattanam, Muslim traders and Nadar traders. All these communities had their own temples and other worship places. Thus, these settlers influenced the traditional culture in Travancore. Even there were linguistic influences and impacts. Thus, due to the establishment of the bazaar a varied and diverse culture slowly took roots in Travancore.

Chalai bazar, photograph taken on 1880s by Govt. Photographer D'Cruz - From the collections of Uthradam Thirunal Marthanda Varma.

Commotions.

In 1908, there was a civic commotion in the area when the police beat up a cart-man bringing goods into the bazaar. Many shops were set on fire. This actually changed the architectural character of the bazaar. It is assumed that the constructions other than wood came up during this phase. In 1916, one Vembu Iyer beat up a Muslim, leading to a commotion. The then king sided with the Brahmins and the Muslims non-co-operated. The bazaar was the scene of communal tension again in 1986.

I have heard an interesting story about Sir C.P’s proposal to widen the streets of the chalai bazaar from grandfather, not so sure, whether the story is authentic or not. It is said that when Travancore treasury faced a breakdown maharaja Chithira Tirunal sought the help of his Dewan Sir C.P. Ramaswamy Iyer. The clever dewan had an idea, he told the merchants of Chalai that the government is going to widen the streets of Chalai bazaar and that they should co-operate with the government. It is said that the next day the wealthy merchants went to ‘Bhakti Vilas’- Dewan’s residence with money, to bribe him to change his decision. As per the plan, the clever dewan accepted money and assured that their shops will be safe. The money he got from the merchants was enough to fill the royal coffers, and perhaps the Dewan’s purse too.

Note: I would like to thank Linta Joy, my classmate who helped with certain details for this article.

TALES FROM THE CAPITAL CITY - VI

HANUMAN PANDARAM

Hanuman Pandaram - Sketch by the author.

“If you don’t get inside the house, the Pandaram will catch you”- you must have heard this warning a hundred times. I too have heard this as a small boy, and once thought that I was fortunate to be born in a generation when this Pandaram no more exist.

‘Pandaram’- commonly known as ‘Hanuman Pandaram’ used to visit the houses of Trivandrum until late 1950’s.

My relative T.K. Hari still remembers a lean middle-aged man wearing a black coat, with two large cloth bags on his both shoulders walking through the streets of Pettah. He used to wear a large copper plate around his neck, which he used to make sound by striking with a stick. The very sound of the copper plate was enough to scare the wits out of small children; they will be hiding behind their mother’s back at that time.

Pandaram wears a wooden mask- painted red or green, with large protruding eyes and sharp tooth. The lower jaw of the mask was movable, sufficient to scare children. Sometimes he will be invited to the houses to scare naughty children. He scares them and warns them that if they do not do their duties properly, he will take them with him in his large bags. After all this drama, with the poor child crying in their mother’s arms, the Pandaram receives some money from the father of the child.

Photograph: from the private collection of K. Hari. Photographer P. Nadaeshan Achari of Pinarammoodu Veedu, Pettah, took this photograph of Hanuman Pandaram in 1950’s.

TALES FROM THE CAPITAL CITY - IV

FAMILY HEIRLOOMS FROM VAIDYAN FAMILY

On my previous blog about Vaidyan C. Luke, I mentioned the prized possessions of the family. Mr. Kurian, who is my father’s friend was happy to show me those precious family heirlooms. I managed to take photographs of a few items.

An antique portrait of Visakam Tirunal Rama Varma, drawn by an unknown artist greets us when we enter the house. Many years back, the portrait (its lower part) suffered badly from silverfish attack. The damaged portion was removed and the painting was re-framed by Kurian’s father, Alexander Koshy Vaidyan.

Beside the portrait is a large framed photograph of C.Luke (which you can see in the previous blog), this picture is actually enlarged from an old family photo (seen below) dated 1880s.

(Above) Photograph of Luke's wife Mary (c.1930). Mary who hailed from a wealthy family owned many shops in Chalai Bazar, Thiruvananthapuram.

(Above) L.C. Koshy with his wife Elizabeth on their wedding day and L.C. Koshy in his later years.

(Above) Luke's medicine box, with small racks for carrying bottles safely and the 'chaana kallu' used for making medicines.

(Above) This circular stone block is an old clock! The markings on the surface of the stone are still visible. Now this stone is used as a step. The next piece is the map of Travancore, carved in wood.

TALES FROM THE CAPITAL CITY - III

PADMANABHAN ACHARI AND SIR C.P’S NOSE

‘Fix anything except broken hearts’- a good caption for an adhesive; broken hearts we can understand, but what about ‘broken nose’? Yes, I am telling about the most famous nose in the history of Travancore, though it doesn’t belong to Travancore by birth; that large dominant nose played an important role in rewriting the history of Travancore – Sir C.P. Ramaswamy Iyer’s nose.

Everyone knows about the turbulent situation our small state faced just before getting independence. On one side we had the eminent Dewan with his American Model government and on the other, the freedom fighters. I am not getting into the history of C.P’s nose damaged by K.C.S. Mani (according to Dr. R. Keshavan who treated C.P, the Dewan’s nose was not injured as everybody believed, he had injuries only on his cheek, neck and fingers), but the nose of a bust of Sir C.P had a similar fate.

K.C.S. Mani's attack on Sir. C.P. - Sketch by the author (2003).

Sir C.P. Ramaswamy Iyer in his later years.

At Thampanoor, there still stands a two-storied building with the name ‘Sachivottama Sir C.P. Shashtiabdapoorthy Memorial Satram’ (opposite to the present transport bus station), built in 1940’s, the time when Sir C.P. was the Dewan of Travancore. Today the building is neglected; we hardly notice the structure hiding its facade behind hoardings and movie posters. But it did have a glorious past. In front of the lodge, there was a small mandapam which housed a bust of the Dewan. In those days, our little capital city was one of the most progressive princely states in India. The roads were neat and less crowded and public buildings were well maintained. So the Memorial was well kept.

The bust was damaged by a group of people who gathered for a party meeting near Thampanoor. The attack was done at night and it is said that the nose of the statue was broken off. The news spread like fire and in no time reached the ears of the Dewan too. Word was sent to find out a master craftsman who could repair the statue. They didn’t have to search for long, their man was just under their ‘nose’; the master craftsman who was employed in Travancore School of Arts as an ivory carver – N. Padmanabhan Achari (1881-1960)of the famous Pinarammoodu family, Pettah. Both his father and grandfather were master craftsmen who have rendered valuable services for the growth of ivory carving in Travancore. Padmanabhan Achari’s grandfather Kochu Kunju Achari was the ‘moothachari’ (head craftsman) who made the golden chariot for Swathi Tirunal in 1842. Later, he and his son Neelakandan Achari made the ivory throne for the Great London Exhibition of 1851. Kochu Kunju Achari was given the title ‘Ananthapadmanabhan Achari’ by Uthram Tirunal Marthanda Varma. Padmanabhan Achari himself was a master ivory carver specialized in making sculptures.

N. Padmanabhan Achari - From the private collection of Sathya Moorthy.

Padmanabhan Achari who was in his 60s at that time was leading a peaceful retired life in his house at Pettah. As I have said before, the period was a turbulent one with the national freedom movement gaining momentum. Clashes between freedom fighters and Travancore police commanded by the Dewan were common in all parts; Pettah was one among the most affected areas. Some of the infamous decisions of the Dewan such as the declaration for an ‘Independent Travancore’ and the installation of the ‘American Model’ government for Travancore led to widespread discontent among the people. In Pettah police charged at a gathering conducted by Congress party. Three people were killed in the firing.

When police came in search of Padmanabhan Achari, the family members panicked. They thought that the police came to question about the gruesome incidents that took place at Pettah. The present living family members still remember the horror that engulfed the house then. But in actuality, the police came to talk about repairing the bust as soon as possible. Padmanabhan had only one demand; as it was not possible to take the bust to his house, he wanted them to cover up the area around it; so that nobody can see him working. Soon, a temporary enclosure was made of thatched coconut leaves around the bust, with complete police protection. Padmanabhan Achari completed the work in a few days. He moulded the missing parts using Plaster of Paris.

Years passed by and now the building stands as the ghost of that glorious era, a silent witness to the happenings of that time. The mandapam was demolished and we don’t have any idea about the current whereabouts of the bust and nobody knows about the craftsman who repaired it.

Well, I think Padmanabhan Achari wanted it like that. Owing to the violent scenario which persisted at that time, particularly in Pettah, it was better to remain anonymous.

Sharat Sunder Rajeev.
16-10-2008.

TALES FROM THE CAPITAL CITY - II

VAIDYAN C. LUKE

Nowadays no one notices the small street named Luke’s lane near G.P.O, even those who know the lane doesn’t bother to know how it got the name. At the end of the street, there is an iron gate and a small board with the name ‘Kukies Holiday Inn’. Once you enter, you are inside another world, with an ambience you will never hope to find in the very heart of the bustling city. Here, time seems to have come to a halt. On the right is an old house with tiled roof, later additions have diminished its beauty and in course of time, it has lost most of its former grandeur. Once it was a fairly large ‘nalukettu’ with all traditional elements like the courtyard and ‘pattayam’. On the right side of the house is a very old sapota tree (Achras sapota) said to be around 200 years old.

This was the house of the great Vaidyan, C.Luke (b.1843-d.1894), the eye-specialist who surpassed even European doctors with his knowledge of traditional medicines, handed down from his forefathers. Luke’s ancestors were the members of Thayyil family of Thevalakkara. His ancestors were Brahmins who later embraced Christianity (Krishnan Nampoothiri and his wife Lakshmi Antharjanam (from Kothamangalam) of Thazhamangalathu Madam got attracted to the teachings of Christ and accepted Christianity. Thomman (Jr.), the only son of Krishnan (Thomman) and Lekshmi (Mariyam) learned Sanskrit and Medicine from Viratarajaguru and became a famous scholar and physician. During this period, Maharaja of Travancore invited Thomman (Jr.) to treat his mother’s eye ailment. Thomman succeeded in relieving the pain from the eye of the royal matriarch in the first attempt itself. Pleased by this, the King bestowed the title ‘Vaidyan’ to Thomman and his successors). Luke’s father was a well-known figure in Travancore. In a letter to C. Luke Vaidyan, Dewan Sir. T. Madhava Row says that he personally knew his father 'who was an able oculist.'

Luke and his brother came to the capital city from Kollam during the reign of Aayilyam Thirunal Rama Varma. As the practitioners of traditional medicine, they had to face many challenges as English medicine was gaining its hold in Travancore at that time. Most of the educated noble families opted for English medical treatment.

But the talented brothers with their sheer dedication managed to get the patronage of many noble families including the royal family. An important achievement in their career was their successful treatment of the Dewan’s son T. Ananda Row (b.1852-d.1919), in 1871 when the latter was preparing for B.A. examination (Ananda Rao went on to become the Dewan of the Princely State of Mysore). In a letter written by T. Madhava Row to Luke dated 28th May 1871 the Dewan expresses his gratitude to the brothers who treated his son’s eye disorder. “Two well known European members of the medical profession were successively consulted, but their treatment showed no permanent benefit…… You undertook the treatment accordingly. With apparently very simple appliances and mild treatment you were able in a very moderate time to accomplish what you had promised.” from these words of the Dewan we can get an idea of the simple treatment techniques employed by the brothers. The Dewan further expressed his gratitude by sending Luke a purse containing 150 British Rupees (a princely amount in those days), suggesting him to buy a watch or books with the money.

Luke was appointed as the palace Vaidyan by Maharaja Visakam Thirunal Rama Varma and he was bestowed with a Veerasringala. Luke was employed in Maharaja’s College (University College) as a teacher of scriptures. He played an important role in establishing the Syrian Church in Statue. Luke married Mary, the couple had three children, his eldest son L.C. Koshy was also a prominent figure, he was the curator of the Museum and was also employed in Huzur Kacherri and was the supervisor in charge of the street lighting.

The Maharajas College and the St. George’s Orthodox Syrian Cathedral, Statue.

C.Luke's tombstone at the Christ Church, Palayam, photographed c.2017 (From the family collection).

C. Luke who served three kings starting from Aayilyam Thirunal to Sree Moolam Thirunal died in 1894; he was buried in CSI Christ Church at Palayam. The old tombstone with the inscription ‘Government Oculist’ is still there in the church graveyard.

Luke’s grandson Alexander Koshy, even though not a famous Vaidyan, kept alive his family traditions, treasured the knowledge handed down to him by his ancestors. Some old palm leaf documents on traditional medicine, antique furniture, photographs, portraits and the grinding stones in various sizes are preserved by the family members. Sir.T. Madhava Row’s letter (in the Dewan's own hand) to Luke is one of the prized possessions of the family archives. Kurian, the great-grandson of C. Luke who lives in a building adjacent to the ancestral house is proud to be a member of this illustrious family.

Before you step out of the gate and merge into the busy streets of the city, take a deep breath and look back, can you still see a man with his large headgear and black coat with the medicine box and people waiting to see him?

Sharat Sunder Rajeev.
12-10-2008.

TALES FROM THE CAPITAL CITY - I

MAHARAJA'S COLLEGE FOR WOMEN

Rani Gouri Parvathy Bai who ruled Travancore from 1814 to 1829 gave permission to a Christian Missionary to start a school in Nagercoil. Later, Swathi Thirunal, the Rani's nephew who ruled from 1829 to 1847 patronized English education in Travancore. It was during the time of Uthram Thirunal 1847-1860 that English education became common and more importance was given to girl’s education in Travancore.

Rani Gouri Parvathy Bai

During the reign of Aayilyam Thirunal (r.1860-1880) the University College was set up. A school for girls was started in Palayam in front of the University College. Initially, it was a school for Christian girls; in 1864 it was opened for girls belonging to all religions. In 1890 the school was accredited by the Madras University and it became a second-grade college. In 1895 during the reign of Sree Moolam Thirunal, the name of the college was changed to Maharaja’s College for Women. In 1897 the college which started with just three Christian students had 400 students in 1909 when a high school secondary training school was also added. In 1920 it became a first-grade college, and a hostel was also established in 1921. During early 1920’s the college was shifted to Thycaud.

The building in which the college now works was actually the residence of the Civil Surgeon of Travancore, built probably during the reign of Aayilyam Thirunal. The surgeon's bungalow was built on top of a small hill known as Thycaud kunnu. According to Prof. Hridayakumari, the renowned writer and the former Principal of the college, the property in which the old building now stands once belonged to the family of Thycattil Kurups, who were the landlords of the area. This land was later taken over by the government of Travancore. In the 1920s, before the college started functioning in the present structure, Dr. Thaliyath, the government surgeon lived there.

In 1923 the Assembly Hall, the Music Department and the Mathematics Department were constructed by P.W.D, it was under the supervision of H.H. Sethu Lekshmi Bai and her Diwan D.H. Watts. Later, Watt’s sister became the Principal of the college. The semi-circular Mathematics Department had a facade which was influenced by the old Egyptian architectural style. The mastermind behind this was engineer Mallapalli Modayil Mani, the famed govt. engineer of Travancore. Mr. Watts, it is said, was particularly interested in having a separate Music Department and had it designed like a temple.

The masterminds - H.H. Sethu Lekshmi Bayi, Dewan Watts and Chief Engineer M.Mani.

Old pictures of the semicircular Mathematics Department.

ABOUT THE ARCHITECTURAL STYLE

A harmonious blend of European architectural features and the traditional can be spotted in the old structure. The structure responds to the local climatic needs, as generally found in the bungalow architecture. The comfort requirement in the hot humid climate prompted the European settlers to go in for buildings with large rooms, high ceiling and verandah all around. For upper floor rooms, balconies were adopted as a necessary feature, originating from the Portuguese construction. The portico, the shaded spot for passage from one building to another was added.

Corridor, Women's College, Thiruvananthapuram- Photo courtesy: Author.

The solid wooden shutter of doors and windows underwent change to ribbed elements –venetian blinds- permitting air circulation and privacy.

TIMELINE - HISTORY OF THE COLLEGE

1817 – Rani Gouri Parvathi Bai stated that education is necessary to ensure progress of the state as a whole.
1818 – The first English school in the state was established at Nagercoil.
1834 - Maharajah Uthradam Tirunal Marthanda Varma visited a school in Nagercoil and invited the headmaster, Mr. Roberts to start a similar school in Travancore.
1859 – A girl’s school started at Palayam.
1864 – Started as “Sircar Girls’ School”
1895 – Shifted to the building opposite to The University College and upgraded to second Grade College.
1897 – Named as “Maharaja’s Girls’ college”
1909 – Permission for starting Degree courses
1920 – Upgraded to first-degree college and affiliated to Madras University.
1923 – Shifted to the present building.
1927 – Central building which houses mathematics, psychology and philosophy was constructed.
1937 – University of Travancore was founded and Women’s college was one of the first seven colleges to be affiliated to it.
1957 – University of Kerala was founded and college was affiliated to it.

NOTED PRINCIPALS

1. First principal was Miss. Sarah Blunt Williams. (1895-1910)
2. Miss D.H.Watts B.A. (1910-1928)
3. Miss Louise Ouwerkerk (Established Economics Dept.)
4. First Indian principal: Miss Anna Nidhin.

Note: I thank Meenu, my classmate from B.Arch who helped in collecting and compiling the history of the College as part of our documentation project.

For more information about the Thycattil Kurups:

http://rakbhima.blogspot.com/2009/02/kayamkulam-war-kurups-lane.html