Showing posts with label East Fort. Show all posts
Showing posts with label East Fort. Show all posts

Sunday, 12 April 2026

TALES FROM THE CAPITAL CITY – 163

 The Man Who Painted the Royal Corridor


Last week, the renowned Indian classical musician Prince Rama Varma shared a four-episode series of short videos featuring the paintings adorning the walls of the corridor connecting the Valiyakottaram—the sprawling palace complex in the historic Fort area of Thiruvananthapuram—with the Padmanabha Swamy Temple. This corridor, which begins on the western side of the famous Kuthiramalika constructed by Rajah Swathi Tirunal Rama Varma, served as a private passage for members of the royal family to access the temple with ease.


The passage leading to Padmanabha Swamy temple. Image courtesy: Uma S. Maheswari.

In these videos, Rama Varma focuses on the artworks—scenes from the Mahabharata and the Bhagavata—which cover the entire wall and are compartmentalised into several panels with painted borders. The videos proved to be a treat for viewers, as the passage is usually off-limits to ordinary worshippers at the temple. However, unknown to many is the fact that these paintings (which have undergone retouching several times) were originally executed by O. Velayudhan Achari, alias O.V. Achari, a fine artist and sculptor of yesteryears.

O.V. Achari (1890–1979) was born into a family that claimed a deep bond with the Padmanabha Swamy Temple. His ancestors hailed from Tirunelveli, where they were members of a craft guild associated with the famous Nellaiappar Siva Temple. They settled in Thiruvananthapuram following an invitation from Rajah Anizham Tirunal Martanda Varma for the reconstruction of the Padmanabha Swamy Temple in the 18th century. The family was granted land known as “Pazhamchottu Vilakam,” part of the virutti lands bestowed upon families who rendered valuable service to the temple or the royals.


O. Velayudhan Achari.

By the early twentieth century, the descendants of these Tirunelveli craftsmen had made a mark in Travancore. Among them were carpenters, ivory craftsmen, occultists, and painters. O.V. Achari began his career as an ivory carver at the School of Industrial Arts (Fine Arts College) and later served as a Fine Arts expert in schools. He excelled as a sculptor and was the founder of the Travancore Ivory Carvers’ Cooperative Alliance. Among his contemporaries and friends were renowned artists such as K.R. Ravi Varma and Rama Varma, nephew and son of Raja Ravi Varma. It was on the instructions of K.R. Ravi Varma that Achari crafted a bust of Raja Ravi Varma, which still occupies a place of importance in the Sri Chitra Art Gallery.


Raja Ravi Varma's bust at Sri Chitra Art Gallery.

Achari’s wife hailed from Vaniyanmoola, from a family that held the right to offer the painted Onavillu (Pallivillu) to the Padmanabha Swamy Temple. Members of the Vaniyanmoola family still recall with gratitude that the master artist undertook the task of painting the Onavillu and remodelled the figures into the forms seen today.

O.V. Achari is also credited with modelling the exemplar for the idol of Sastha at the Sabarimala Temple. He created a clay figure that later served as the model for the panchaloha casting by Chengannur Neelakanta Panicker. The clay figure made by Achari was based on a photograph of an idol of Lord Sastha worshipped at the palace. The photograph had been taken by Uthradom Tirunal Martanda Varma, then Elayaraja, on the instructions of his mother, Sethu Parvathy Bayi.


An old photograph of the Sastha idol worshipped in the palace.

For a long time, the moulds made by O.V. Achari was housed in the Travancore Ivory Carvers’ Cooperative Alliance Limited building at Pazhavangady. Later, during the reconstruction of the building, this mould—along with numerous others made by craftsmen of the older generation—was used to fill the foundation. Thus, a remarkable piece of history still rests beneath the building.

Sharat Sunder Rajeev.

Tuesday, 22 April 2025

TALES FROM THE CAPITAL CITY – 150

 In the Studio of Memory: A Tribute to the Court Artists of Travancore

This write-up is based on an interview (2006) with my Periyappan, late Sri Thankaswamy Achari, 
artist (my mother's elder sister's husband), who, through recollections of his association 
with old school artists, had inspired me to research on the court painters of Travancore.

Artist Manacaud K. Ramakrishnan Achari,
portrait painted by his son R. Haridas (1969). Private Collection.

A small boy of hardly ten years once lost his way in the meandering corridors of a vast palace complex. It was his first visit to the town and the Valiya Kottaram in the Fort, Thiruvananthapuram, and as he walked from one room to another, he felt guilty for not listening to his grandfather. 

His grandfather, a humble caretaker of the Maharaja’s ‘Golden Chariot’, had asked him to remain in the old Radhapura (the chariot house). However, the young boy’s innate curiosity got the better of him and he quickly slipped out of his grandfather's sight. He peeked into one of the rooms in a nearby building; the room resembled a dark tunnel with a rectangular pocket of light on the other side. He walked towards the light. One room led to another, and finally, after he had tried in vain to return to his grandfather, the young lad entered a room that was, like the others, dark. 

Standing in the dark, he scrutinised the surroundings. When his eyes got accustomed to the darkness, he noticed the shadowy images on the walls. Now what? He cursed himself for straying away from his grandfather. He felt an urge to run, to escape from the clutches of the apparitions in the room. At one end of the room was diffused light coming from an unknown space. He jumped across the high thresholds, racing towards the comforting light. A well-lit room was now visible. When the fearful thoughts loosened its clutches, he could make out the image of a man, dressed in white, seated before a strange ‘equipment’. The boy’s heart was pounding, and he was sweating profusely as he approached the room. Surprisingly, the ‘man in white’ had not noticed his presence; he was busy leaning over a table cluttered with glass bottles and several brushes. 

The boy noticed that a few brushes had fallen off the table and were lying scattered on the floor. Now it became clear that the strange three-legged ‘equipment’ was an easel, and on it was a picture, painted in glowing colours. The little boy stood behind the door, silently observing the actions of the 'man in white’. Suddenly, he felt a heavy hand fall on his shoulder; a cold shiver went down his spine. He was sure that it was the ghostly apparitions that caught him. However, as he turned around, he saw the smiling face of his grandfather! “Now you don’t pester him with your mischief,” his grandfather said. It was only then did the 'man in the white’ notice the unexpected visitors at his door. "Ah, Kesavan, so you finally made it to my studio!” he said. “And who is this boy? Is he your grandson?” he asked. Kesavan pushed the little boy to the front. “Yes, he is my grandson. Sorry if he disturbed you.” The little boy who braved the dark corridors was now shy to face his grandfather’s friend. “Come here, my boy,” the man in white said. “He was exploring the palace on his own,” Kesavan said. Reluctantly, the boy looked at the man’s face. He was smiling. “So, did you see the paintings by Raja Ravi Varma? If you haven’t, let me show you around.” Without another word, the ‘man in white’ caught hold of his hand and walked towards the dark rooms. 

The dark rooms were not the same anymore. The ghostly apparitions, which the boy saw clearly, were images of people adorned in state robes and beautiful ornaments. The boy had never in his life seen such beautiful pictures! In the other rooms, he came across several fascinating artefacts. Little did he realise then that he was in an art gallery! 

The ‘man in white’, after he had shown around the place, walked with his visitors to the nearby Radhapura. “My grandson has an aptitude for drawing. It will be a blessing for him if he can learn drawing under your instruction,” Kesavan said. By this time, the boy had gathered that his grandfather’s friend was an artist and that he was employed at the royal art gallery. “Why not? He can come to my home whenever he wishes to,” he said. Before they left, Kesavan directed his grandson to get the artist's blessing. The boy touched the artist’s feet. “My blessings will always be with you,” the boy heard these words ringing in his ears. 

It was many years later that I had the fortune to sit beside Thankaswamy Achari - the ‘little boy’- who was then in his early sixties, and record a detailed narration of his first encounter with his master. The setting for the first meeting was also spectacular; the art gallery the boy had unknowingly entered was the famed Ranga Vilas Art Gallery, maintained by the Travancore royals. The ‘man in white’–Manacaud K. Ramakrishnan Achari - the boy later came to know was one of the most respected artists in the erstwhile Travancore Princely State.

Artist Thankaswamy Achari

Note:
Thankaswamy Achari (d. 2006) was my mother’s elder sister’s husband. His guru, Manacaud K. Ramakrishnan Achari, was my paternal great-grandfather.


A portrait (oil on canvas) by Thankaswamy Achari.

A group portrait (oil on canvas) by Thankaswamy Achari.


Sunday, 17 July 2022

TALES FROM THE CAPITAL CITY – 138

Sharing the link to the live recording of the Fort Area Thiruvananthapuram Heritage Awareness Programme conducted in collaboration with LSGD Planning and Art & Heritage Commission.

For more information on the building regulations (focused on the Agraharams) you may visit kerala.gov.in https://townplanning.kerala.gov.in › ...PDF FORT AREA HERITAGE ZONE to download the handout prepared in collaboration with the Department of Architecture, College of Engineering Trivandrum (CET), Thiruvananthapuram. 

https://youtu.be/KNJstd3j6eg



Saturday, 24 July 2021

TALES FROM THE CAPITAL CITY – 135

Life Around the Temple - Urban Form of Trivandrum Fort | SPACES 2021


Ar Sharat Sunder R & Dr Bina Tharakan



The Kerala Architectural Festival, popularly known as SPACES, supported by the D.C. Kizhakemuri Foundation, DC School of Architecture and Design (Trivandrum & Vagamon) and co-promoted by D.C. Books, the makers of the Kerala Literature Festival commences on July 15, 2021.

The festival will be conducted online Live via YouTube & Facebook platforms due to the current pandemic restrictions. It will be held every week on Thursday, Friday and Saturday from 7pm to 9pm, till 31st July, 2021.

Please go to this link to see the recorded session:

Friday, 16 March 2018

TALES FROM THE CAPITAL CITY – 121

A GATEWAY TO STORIES

'A gateway to stories', a write-up on Vettimuricha kotta, the fort gate on the eastern side of the historic Fort, Thiruvananthapuram, The Hindu, 17-03-2018.