TALES FROM THE CAPITAL CITY – XXXV

REFLECTIONS OF AN UNKNOWN ARTIST

 'Reflections of an unknown artist', write-up on G. Hariram, an artist and photographer of erstwhile Travancore State, The Hindu, 13-09-2014.

TALES FROM THE CAPITAL CITY - XXII

THE ‘GUSTHI’ TRADITION OF MANACAUD 

Sitting in front of the thekkath in my grandmother’s ancestral home in Manacaud is a stone idol of Lord Hanuman; a relief carving in white stone. Until recently my grandmother's younger brother Kumara Swamy had maintained the thekkath, which was originally setup by his grandfather’s younger brother, a famed occultist of his time, Valiya mandravathi Govindan Achari (1850s-1944). The thekkath houses a small idol of Lord Ganesh, a small ‘Vel’ representing Lord Subramanyan and a cane that belonged to the mandravathi himself. The Hanuman idol was carved by the local stone masons, who lived in Manacaud and Kuriyathy regions. These craftsmen were associated with the Sree Padmanabha Swamy temple and the Valiya Kottaram. The ‘chellam vaka’ associated with the temple and the palace was in old days headed by the Kallampally karnavar. This section employed skilled craftsmen from all fields. 

A pyalwan (?) - from the private collection of
K. Ramakrishnan Achari.

During last century the fame of Manacaud spread all over India with the name of a single man - ‘Pyalwan Narayana Pillai’. Better known as ‘Kerala Gamma’, Narayana Pillai was one of the best traditional wrestlers Travancore has ever seen. Travancore has a long tradition of maintaining wrestlers, locally known as mallanmar. In the old days, many of them served as personal attendants and bodyguards to the Kings. Swathi Thirunal’s reign was the golden age of artists, musicians, and wrestlers. Many eminent wrestlers from far off lands came and performed before the King. ‘A number of native boxers from Travancore and other parts of Malabar skilled in the art of fencing, single combat, sword, stick, and other exercises, were entertained for the amusement of the court. To witness the mode of champion-fighting in other countries, the Maha Rajah got from the court of Mysore a few sets of trained athletes called Mullaga Chettis, who fight in single combat, till the combatants bodies are bathed in blood….A set of pyalwans (Mussulman champions) from Hyderabad who performs wonderful feats and exhibits extraordinary powers of muscle, were entertained at the court for some time. The performances exhibited by these men would be considered exaggerated, even if correctly related. One of them, a young man of about thirty years of age, with a strong-built body, used to lie on his back and allow a thick granite stone slab to be placed on his breast, and have the same split into pieces by pounding it with a thick iron pestle. He used to throw large iron cannon balls into the air and receive them on his head, back and breast’ (Shangunni Menon). C.V. Raman Pillai in his epic work 'Rama Raja Bahadur' gives a vivid description of a wrestling match between Azhakan Pillai and Kandiravarayar. V. Narasimhan Thampi, another historian of the royal family writes about the turbulent days of Dharmaraja’s reign when spies, disguised as wrestlers and magicians had gained entry inside the Fort. In old days Gatta gusthi, a form of wrestling was common in Thiruvananthapuram. Manacaud Narayana Pillai was one among the last famed wrestlers of Thiruvananthapuram. However, the wrestling community once patronized by the royals has now become almost extinct.

The Ganesh idol, Vel and the cane inside the thekkath and the Hanuman idol.

Once the name and fame of the Narayana Pillai spread all the way from Aarulvaimozhi to Kannur. He defeated several famous wrestlers such as Chotta Thimmayya, Gourimutthu, Ashique Hussain, Bhima Rao and Periya Pillai. During the 1940s many famous wrestlers camped in Narayana Pillai’s house in Manacaud. Children from the surroundings would crowd around the house to get a glimpse of the wrestlers. A senior resident of Manacaud says; “As children, we would assemble near the house of Narayanan Pillai to see the wrestlers who have gathered there. In the evenings they would all march to the nearby Shasta temple, with a group of children following them”. Matches would be conducted in the large grounds of Palayam. The Goda (arena) would be prepared and soft red soil from Thiruvallam was spread all over. The soft soil prevented injuries. The majority of the Pyalwanmar were worshippers of Lord Hanuman; some of them carried with them the idol of their favourite deity where ever they went. 

Kerala Gama Manacaud Narayana Pillai - in his younger years and during his last years - Picture courtesy - Kala Kaumudi Magazine, Issue 429, from an article written by Kallikadu Ramachandran.

Narayanan Pillai was a friend of artist K. Ramakrishnan Achari (my paternal grandmother’s father) and often visited the house. In front of Putten Veedu (another related house) in Manacaud was a large open space where the youngsters of the region assembled under the famous pyalwan Narayana Pillai to learn wrestling. Sundaram Achari and Lekshmanan Achari of Putten Veedu were his friends and disciples. Soon the ground was transformed into a goda where Narayana Pillai could formally train his students. The stone laying ceremony for the Goda was done by Elayaraja Uthradom Thirunal Marthanda Varma (the present King). Influenced by the wrestling tradition of Manacaud, my grandmother’s eldest brother Krishna Swamy of Pillavilakathu Veedu, his brothers and friends started a gymnasium in the 1940s. It was situated behind the studio building, situated opposite to the house. During those days a ‘pyalwan’ came there to train the youngsters. On special occasions, the famed pyalwan of Travancore, Narayana Pillai himself came to the goda and gave instructions. The idol of Lord Hanuman carved out of white stone was worshipped there. Once as a small boy Kumara Swamy kicked the idol, only to find that his foot had swollen up and he could not walk for days!

The Hanuman idol - Sketch by the author (2007).

Note:

Thekkath - a place of worship.
Karnavar- male head of a joint family.

References:

Narasimhan Thampi. V, Travancore Royal Family and Valiakottaram, 1976.

Shangunni Menon P, A history of Travancore from the Earliest Times, Volume I, Higginbotham, 1878.

TALES FROM THE CAPITAL CITY- XVIII

THE STORY OF A VELVET CAP.

‘Who wouldn't wish to dress up like a King?’

Everyone does, of course! But in a period when our land was torn apart by the evils of the caste system, not everyone could dream of going out dressed like a King.

On one of my visits to Krishna Singh’s house, he dug out from his collections a priced possession - a purple velvet cap. It was an old cap, but the embroidery lining running around the cap and small beads sewn on it was in perfect condition. Carefully packed inside a plastic cover he treasured the small cap all these years.

‘So what was so special about the cap?’

Krishna Singh narrated to me the story of the cap; it was connected to the history of Travancore and gives us a glimpse on the social hierarchy of the yesterdays.

The story of the cap begins many years back, in the 1930s. Dharma Bai Padma Bai, Krishna Singh’s paternal grandmother was the matriarch of the family at that time. History and hearsay tell us that they were Rajputs who had migrated to Travancore from Ayodhya. (There are Rajput settlements in Kottar (Lala Street) too; they are believed to be the decedents of the settlers who had migrated to the precincts of Suchindram temple during the reign of Krishna Deva Rayar). According to family traditions, Princess Sindhu of Oudh (Abhirami) had arrived in Suchindram during the reign of Rama Varma. The young princess was on a pilgrimage - seeking the blessings of Stanumalaya Moorthy. It is believed that the princess was a ‘mangalik’, with the evil shadow of Planet Mars in her horoscope; she had to undergo a pilgrimage, seeking blessings from gods for a happy married life. The princess’s recitation of bhajan in her sweet voice caught the attention of the King - Rama Varma and he was attracted towards her. The rest is history…..The bloody battle of succession fought between the sons of Sindhu (Abhirami) and Prince Marthanda Varma in is an important chapter in Travancore history. The Thampimar - Raman Thampi and Pappu Thampi fought against the ‘heir apparent to the throne of Travancore’, Prince Marthanda Varma. With the defeat of the Thampimar, the madampimar - Ettuveettil Pillamar who helped the brothers also met with a gruesome end.

Padma Bai’s husband Baburam Gopalram was an Anchal Inspector. Gopalram’s job took him places, after being posted in various places all over Travancore; finally, he decided to settle in the capital city. Manacaud in old days was famous for its Rajput and Pathan settlements. Several Nair and Chetti families were also concentrated in Manacaud. Its proximity to Sree Padmanabha Swamy, the nucleus of the capital city and the Chalai bazaar were the reasons why this region was comparatively ‘overpopulated’ even from old days. C.V. Raman Pillai in his epic novel ‘Marthanda Varma’ gives us a vivid description of the geographic features of ‘Manakkad’ otherwise known as ‘Manal - Kad’. ‘Puttenkotta’, a small hillock near Manacaud - Kuriyathy regions was where Umayamma Ranis palace was situated. The famed ‘Shingarathoppu’, ‘Puttenkotta Smashanam’, ‘Kalippan Kulam’ and many famous temples like Manacaud Sree Dharma Sastha temple and Attukal temple, Samadhi temple are all in its vicinity. ‘Mukilan’ (Mugalan), the Mughal chieftain who came down to sack Thiruvananthapuram had stationed in Manacaud - it is said that the local Pathans were the one who deviated him from launching an attack on the Sree Padmanabha Swamy temple.

Rajpoot Songster and musician- Yale University collection.

Krishna Singh’s grandfather settled down in Manacaud in the early 20th century. The local Rajput population was usually employed in the palace. Tales of valour and an imposing physique earned them jobs in the ‘Kuthira Pattalam’, the Kings Mounted Force. Several others served as trusted ‘Choapdars’ and as emissaries on special assignments.

Sree Chithira Thirunal, wearing a velvet cap; 1924.

Madhava Singh, the ‘embroidery worker’ to the Travancore royal family lived in Manacaud. This man was an expert in making intricate embroidery works that added to the beauty of the ‘royal robes’. He was employed by His Highness Sree Moolam Tirunal (1885-1924). Velvet upholstery works in the palace were undertaken by him. However, Madhava Singh was best known for his velvet caps - velvet caps with intricate embroidery works were worn by the royals and nobles. These caps were made using high-quality velvet. First of all the frame for the cap would be made in cardboard. Velvet cloth - with intricate embroidery works - cut in appropriate dimensions would be sewn together and glued around the cylindrical cardboard piece. For decorative embroidery works floral designs were often adopted. For royals the embroidery works were done using gold thread, sometimes pearls and semi-precious stones were also used - depending upon the socio-economic status of the customer. Being a family friend, Madhava Singh frequently visited Krishna Singh’s house. Once Padma Bai asked Madhava Singh to make a velvet cap for her first grandson - like the one Madhava Singh made for ‘Chitira’ (Chithira Tirunal Bala Rama Varma).

Dharma Bai Padma Bai - From the private collection of Krishna Singh.

Krishna Singh who was four years old at that time still remembers his grandmother - a stern lady who ruled the household with an iron hand. The older generations say that she was a ‘stern, yet soft-hearted lady’. Many poor people from the surrounding area would run to her in times of need and she was always ready to help the needy. Madhava Singh was in a dilemma, he couldn’t make her unhappy, at the same time, he would be in trouble if the cap was spotted by royals or the nobles.

The velvet cap - photograph taken by the author.

Finally, he yielded to the old women’s command. One fine day he came in and placed the cap in Padma Bai’s hands. Krishna Singh’s joy knew no bounds! He was now the proud owner of a velvet cap. However, there were strict instructions from Madhava Singh - the cap was not to be worn in public. Hari Ram, Krishna Singh’s father took a photograph of his young son wearing his new cap.

Krishna Singh with his siblings, wearing his new cap - Clicked by Hariram (From the private collection of Krishna Singh).

Years passed, monarchy faded away from memory and velvet caps, once a symbol of nobility was pushed to the discreet corners of wardrobes. However, for Krishna Singh the cap is a treasure, it brings back the memories of his childhood, his long-dead grandmother, and the cap maker.

Sharat Sunder Rajeev
May, 2010.

* Krishna Singh passed away on 23rd October 2010, he was 73 years old. Krishna Singh was a good friend of mine, he always had some interesting story to tell that helped me in knowing more about the local communities of Thiruvananthapuram. A man deeply embedded to his roots, Mr. Singh was always proud of his 'Rajpoot' ancestry. May his soul rest in peace.