Beyond the Durbar: Friendship in the Travancore Court
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F.C. Lewis, Grand Durbar of Travancore, oil on canvas (detail). Kuthira Malika Palace Museum collection. |
Among the many paintings by the European painter F.C. Lewis in the Travancore royal collection, a large canvas depicting the "Grand Durbar of Travancore" stands out not only for its scale but also for its detailed representation of the ceremonial practices, hierarchies, and protocols associated with the royal durbar. Painted in 1852, the work is remarkable as an important historical document that captures a significant moment in the history of Travancore and serves as a repository of portraits of nearly a hundred notable figures associated with the Travancore court. There are many interesting stories waiting to be told about each of these individuals. Today, however, let us focus on two figures who distinguished themselves during their years of service in Travancore and who—despite the court intrigues and competition that marked the period—remained close friends throughout their lives.
Among them, Sir T. Madhava Rao requires little introduction. Coming from a distinguished line of administrators, Rao served as the Dewan (Prime Minister) of Travancore from 1857 to 1872 and played a crucial role in shaping the administrative and financial reforms of the state.
His close friend T. Vedadreesadasa Moodaliar, however, is not widely known outside Travancore. He was the son of Sulochana Mudaliar, who is still remembered with gratitude in Tirunelveli for his generous contribution towards the construction of a bridge that continues to bear his name. Vedadreesadasa, who later retired as a High Court judge, came to be known as the “grand old man” of Travancore. Quite unusually for those times, he lived to the remarkable age of eighty-six, witnessing the reigns of seven Travancore rulers—from Gowri Parvathi Bayi to Mulam Tirunal Rama Varma.
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| T. Madhava Rao (left) & T. Vedadreesadasa Moodaliar (right), detail from Lewis's painting. |
The warmth of the relationship shared by Rao and Moodaliar can be glimpsed from a few pieces of correspondence between them which, fortunately, have withstood the ravages of time and came to light during the course of my research for my forthcoming work, The Forgotten Atelier. Among these, I was particularly drawn to the following letter written by Madhava Rao in 1889, towards the end of an eventful life. It carries the gentle warmth of shared memories from their youthful days in Travancore.
Mylapore
17th December, 1889
My dear Friend,
It would be difficult for me to state how much pleasure I derived from your kind note of the 10th instant. It was indeed a treat to hear from one whose friendship dates from youthful days. I vividly recall to mind our delightful life at Trivandrum. How we used to talk away and heartily laugh at Bajanapurai in the presence of the Heir Apparent of the time.
Long years have now passed away and we are descending in the valley of life. So far we have to congratulate ourselves that we have achieved a happy life and have nothing to repent of. Yes—I have been unwell. I am now getting better. The weather is just now quite monsoonish. Downright rain is steadily falling. The drooping spirit of man and beast are feeling a reviving influence. I am glad you are settled in beautiful Travancore and amidst old friends.
Many thanks for all your good wishes which I heartily reciprocate.
With kindest regards and affectionate remembrances,
Yours very sincerely,
T. MADAVA ROW
Details such as this remind us that behind the rigid hierarchies of courtly protocol, these personal exchanges reveal a more intimate dimension of Travancore’s history—one shaped not merely by offices and titles, but by enduring human relationships.
06.03.2026
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