TALES FROM THE CAPITAL CITY – 158

 A Statesman in the Crowd: The Young Madhava Rao in the Travancore Durbar

Sir T. Madhava Rao

This rare mid-nineteenth-century depiction of the Travancore Rajah’s royal court is remarkable for recording the portraits of many distinguished courtiers—both natives of Travancore and the Paradesis who, from the early decades of the nineteenth century, had rooted their lives in its soil. Among the most prominent non-natives in royal service were the Maratha Brahmins, who, aided by their knowledge of the English language, found favour with the British administrators. In Travancore, the coveted post of Dewan (Prime Minister) was held by Maratha Brahmins for more than half a century beginning in 1817.

This detail becomes all the more compelling when we realize that the painting includes the most renowned of these Dewans. Though barely discernible within the crowd, our eyes are instinctively drawn to the handsome face of a young man. In the composition he does not command immediate attention; pressed among senior officials, he stands not far from the Rajah’s throne—the focal point of the scene. At this moment, he serves merely as the Tutor to the young princes, the nephews of Rajah Uthram Tirunal Martanda Varma.

The Durbar of Rajah Uthram Tirunal Martanda Varma, oil on canvas (detail). 

Yet this young man—Tanjore Madhava Rao—scion of a distinguished lineage with a history of service in Travancore, stands on the threshold of an extraordinary career. He is poised to ascend the administrative ladder and to distinguish himself as one of the greatest ministers in Travancore’s history—a statesman whose destiny would eventually carry him far beyond its borders.

But the question remains: is this the earliest painted portrait of him? Though his likeness appears only as a miniature within this vast oil painting of more than sixty faces, he stands out—the brilliance in his eyes unmistakable.

Learn more about this painting and the artist behind it in my forthcoming book, 'The Forgotten Atelier.'

12.02.2026

TALES FROM THE CAPITAL CITY – 144

  ENGLISH SUBBA RAO AND SATRAM SCHOOL

Dewan Subba Rao

The Govt. Fort U.P. School, Manacaud, popular among the locals as 'Satram School', is a grand heritage edifice located on the eastern end of the Ramavarmapuram Gramom (Sreevaraham). Despite being a popular landmark, the locals are hardly aware of its history. They maintain that the expansive two-story building was formerly a Satram, and it's where young T. Madhava Rao was first lodged when he came to Travancore in 1849 as 'Tutor' to the nephews of Rajah Uthram Tirunal Martanda Varma.

Undoubtedly the most distinguished Maratha Brahmin to serve Travancore, Madhava Rao was but one among the many Paradesi Brahmins, who occupied coveted administrative positions in the State from the early 19th century. A brilliant bureaucrat, it did not take the young tutor to secure a dominant place in the administrative machinery, and in 1857 he secured the enviable post of Dewan (prime minister) of Travancore.

Credited for reforming the Travancore administrative system in modern lines, Madhava Rao orientated the Princely State towards an era of Colonial modernity. While the residents of Thiruvananthapuram still remember him with gratitude (thanks to the life-size statue of Rao right at the heart of the city), the history of the Satram goes well beyond Madhava Rao, to the reign of the celebrated Rajah Swathi Tirunal Rama Varma (r.1829-1846).

The Huzur records reveal that the mansion was actually constructed in the 1840s as the residence of Dewan 'English Subbrow' (alias Tanjore Subba Rao), who, like Sir T. Madhava Rao, started career in Travancore as a 'Tutor' to the young princes, Swathi Tirunal and his brother Uthram Tirunal.

A record from 1015 M.E. (c.1840 C.E.) mentions the amount accorded to purchase land in Ramavarmapuram for constructing a house for Dewan Subba Rao. Another record from 1018 M.E. (c.1843 C.E.) details the location of the mansion—on the central street, towards the eastern end of the Ramavarmapuram Gramom—as well as the amount sanctioned for the purchase of gifts on the occasion of house warming ceremony. The second record is particularly useful as it dispels any confusion regarding identifying the Satram School as Subba Rao’s residence.

The Satram School, Ramavarmapuram Gramom

With its robust cornice, arches, and moulded balusters, the building distinguishes itself from other structures of the era. Rather than exhibiting an affinity to the local construction practices, the Satram borrows architectural elements from the 18th and 19th century mansions of Tanjore and Madurai, where the neoclassical paradigm blends with the heavy stucco moulding.

English Subba Rao (b.1775-d.1848), the tutor from Tanjore, had lived a remarkable life. Before he became the Dewan of Travancore, Rao had a commendable career in Tanjore court of Rajah Serfoji II. A polyglot, Subba Rao served as tutor to three Travancore kings and authored the first play (Kishun Koovur) written by an Indian in the English language. Rahul Sagar, in his latest book 'Krishna Kumari, The Tragedy of India', shares previously unknown details of Subba Rao’s life. Check out the book for more details.

TALES FROM THE CAPITAL CITY – 136

 Uthram Tirunal Marthanda Varma's Ivory Skeleton

It was great fun working with the staff of the Natural History Museum, Thiruvananthapuram, for this short film on the ivory skeleton currently on display at the museum.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0p9ly4K9u_E

TALES FROM THE CAPITAL CITY – 132

COIMBATORE RAGHAVA AIYER

Raghava Aiyer (b.1826-d.), a second-generation Mullamootu Bhagavathar (an epithet used by the Travancore court musicians) was born in Vadasherri near Nagercoil. Young Raghava Aiyer was fortunate to receive training in music from the famous Palghat Parameswara Bhagavathar, who had adorned the royal court since the days of Swathi Tirunal Rama Varma. After a brief stint at Trivandrum and Haripad, Raghava Aiyer was helped by Cherunni Koil Tampuran, the elder brother of Kerala Kālidāsa Kerala Varma Valiya Koil Tampuran, to relocate to Coimbatore. At Coimbatore, Aiyer resumed his lessons under Chidambara Nattuvan, the grandson of the renowned Vadivelu Nattuvan (one among the Tanjore Quartets of Swathi’s court).

Raghava Aiyer was introduced to Maharajah Ayilyam Tirunal Rama Varma by M. Kunjaru Raja of Mavelikkara (a talented musician and gifted player on Swarbat), during the latter’s visit to Madras. Later, the Maharajah invited Aiyer to Trivandrum, where he was appointed as a court musician. Not long after, the Maharajah developed a deep admiration for Aiyer’s singing and invited him to perform at the Sangumugham beach palace whenever the king visited the place with his close friends and advisors. 

However, around the early 1870s, a sly court musician poisoned the Maharajah’s ears with stories that would ultimately lead to Raghava Aiyer’s fall from grace. Crestfallen, he returned to his wife’s house in Haripad and led a quiet life. But by a stroke of luck, in 1874, Raghava Aiyer returned to Trivandrum on the Maharajah’s command for a musical duel at the Rangavilas palace hall. Ayilyam Tirunal was desperate to present Raghava Aiyer before Maha Vaidyanatha Aiyer, the unmatched musical virtuoso, who was invited to the capital for the Navarathri festival. The legendary duel went on for two days, by the end of which the Maharajah presented expensive shawls, pair of gold bangles and Rs.1500 to both the contestants.

Happily for Raghava Aiyer, his successful performance as a formidable Travancorean who could meet Vaidyanatha Aiyer on his own ground was enough to reinstate him back on the lofty pedestal as a royal favourite.

Sharat Sunder R, 05-09-2020.                  Based on 'My Musical Reminiscences' by T. Lakshmana Pillai B.A.